A Green Christmas

Christmas is not usually what one thinks of when thinking Green. This year let's green up our holidays. There are many ways we can reduce our energy consumption and reduce waste during this time of year.

1. Switch from traditional Christmas lights to L.E.D. Lights. They will reduce your energy consumption greatly, the average string of 50 lights uses 300 watts of energy, the same 50 set of LED lights only uses 4 watts of energy and last up to 100,000 hours.

Talk about savings! Not only are we saving a huge amount of energy, we are also keeping precious dollars in our bank accounts.

2. Put all your lights on timers. By putting all your lights on timers (inside and out), you will save energy by controlling the amount of hours your lights are on.

I don't know about you, but I've fallen asleep with the lights on many times!

3. Decorate using nature. Try decorating your home using natural items. Pinecones and fresh greens make a beautiful centerpiece for a table or swag for the mantle. Adding pinecones or holly berries to your Christmas tree will give it an elegant, natural touch. White Pine Roping is made from the trimming of the trees and is a great way to decorate the outside. It can also be mulched or composted after the season is over.

4. Try buying gifts that will actually get used for more than a week or two. Books, movies, actual toys like soccer balls or roller skates, toys that use kid power. Buying all that plastic crap that the kids see on TV is just like throwing money down the drain, and polluting our environment. Buy them art supplies that will foster their creativity or a musical instrument. Earthopoly [http://www.greennationgardens.com/Earthopoly-Eco-Friendly-Board-Game-p/eg-earthopoly.htm] is a fun board game that teaches about the environment and sustainability and it is 100% green! We are so caught up in giving our kids what the marketing companies tell us will make them happy. The toy of the month is not going to make them happy. It may satisfy them for a week or two, but not more than that.

Help them to find their passion, something they will love and grow with.

5. Don't waste food. The holidays are the biggest eating time of the year. We cook more, we bake like crazy, we basically overindulge. This means that much food gets wasted. Make sure any and all food scraps go into the compost, not the trash can! Freeze or share what you cannot eat yourselves. If you have an abundance of leftovers, take it to your local homeless shelter, a shut in neighbor, or maybe invite someone less fortunate to share your meal. Cookies, cakes and pies given to a shelter or nursing home would be greatly appreciated.

6. When setting your holiday table, go ahead and use the good china! If you have them, cloth napkins are the way to go. It makes the table look beautiful, sophisticated and it saves waste from entering our landfills. Paper napkins, plastic ware and plastic or paper plates is a huge tax on our landfills and they take a lot of energy and trees to make. If you are going to use paper napkins and plates, please do not throw them into the trashcan! Paper napkins and paper plates can be easily composted with your kitchen scraps. This will make clean up a breeze.

6. Use eco friendly wrappings. Use recycled gift bags, Comics, decorate brown paper bags for wrapping paper. At the very least do not throw your wrapping paper into the trash! Wrapping paper can be recycled just like any other paper.

7. Make lists and condense your shopping trips as much as possible, or better yet, do your shopping online. This will save lots of $$ on fuel and also keep your life simpler and less aggravating.

These are easy tips anyone can implement to Green up your Christmas.

How to Handle Dog Growling

Under normal circumstances, dogs will only be aggressive when they feel threatened or in danger. They will only attack after having displayed progressively more explicit warning gestures several times.

Often, dogs will growl to let their owners know what they want. Dogs will probably do it again once they discover that growling works for them. It is hardly unexpected that dog growling is a common problem because some people misguidedly think that this is an indication that their dog will protect them. It is more likely that the dog will take care of himself and his possessions.

Some legal definitions classify a growling dog as dangerous so there may be a requirement for him to be restricted. This may involve placing your dog in a crate, in a separate room or restricting him to your back yard.

If your dog growls and he ends up getting what he wants, he will rapidly come to the conclusion that this is a very useful tool to get his own way. Comprehending your dog's needs is a huge help in putting an end to this behavior.

The following are a few reasons for dog growling:

He is protecting his meal. A dog may practice resource or food guarding to protect his food from a perceived threat (namely you!). It is important that children be taught not to interrupt or tease dogs while they are eating. This also applies to adults; dogs need to understand that people provide them with food and don't remove it. When their is no risk of the dog growling, food should be added to the dog's dish.
He's hungry. This is an excellent opportunity to teach a dog how to convey his needs. In order for the food dish to be placed in front of the dog, he would need to behave correctly.
He needs to go potty. Some dog owners are happy that their pooch asks to be let outside to eliminate, though this is an unrealistic expectation for an old or sick dog or a puppy. So a dog doesn't have to worry about getting his owner's attention to let him outside, it is much better if regular outings for elimination are scheduled.
As with food guarding, dogs may also protect their toys. Growling is often the first signal from the dog that he will bite if his warning is ignored. In this situation, the best thing to do is completely remove the toy from the dog and only let him have it when he is in his crate.
He has stolen an object and wants to keep it for himself. Never chase your dog if he has taken something that belongs to you. Instead, you should make sure that he receives good obedience training where he will learn the joys of retrieving and will come to you on command.
Sometimes dog growling is an indication of his fear of being groomed or clipped. Considerable skill is necessary to groom some dogs and you should not try it yourself without the appropriate training.
Dogs will also growl to protect themselves from abuse and suffering. An example might be that a child has constantly tormented the dog under the fence or hit him when his owner wasn't looking, so the dog would growl when he came in contact with a child. Sadly, the dog will usually be blamed for growling in this instance.
When a dog growls and his owner jumps backwards, this can be great sport for the dog. He must not be permitted to become accustomed to this behavior as he is likely to show aggression when his owner doesn't jump if he growls. It is important to nip this behavior in the bud from the get go.

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Simple Effective Ways to Make Teething Babies Feel Better

You, as an adult feel horrible when your wisdom tooth is appearing. Think about how bad your baby is feeling when all his teeth are starting to grow! They pass through severe pain and unbearable itching. To make this period an easier one, you need to know few tricks which will alleviate their pain and will make the itching sensation disappear.

The first thing you have to know is that your presence matters for your baby when he is in pain. Taking the teething baby in your arms, holding and swinging him will bring comfort and will partially sooth him. Yet, patience and a loving attitude are not enough to keep the pain away. This is why your baby will probably continue to cry even after you have taken him into your arms. At this moment you will have to try new means to calm him.

The best way to do that is to give him something to chew. You can buy a specially designed toy, which is softer than other toys and made of a non-toxic plastic, which babies can safely chew. Usually, these toys contain a liquid inside and can be kept in the fridge for few minute. The cold toy will sooth the pain and the itching, and your baby will be happy again. If you do not find such a toy, you can try with a new piece of cloth. Use a natural fabric, moisture it with a little cold water and give it to your baby to chew it. It will have the same effects as the toy.

Another way in which you can relieve your teething baby's pain is by gently massaging his jaws with a specially designed, calming gel. The pain will disappear in a matter of minutes and your baby will be able to resume its activity. There are some gels which may cause sleep, so make sure you only apply them before your baby goes to sleep.

At meal time, try to feed your baby only with cold food, such as yogurt or fruit puree, depending on what ingredients you have introduced in his diet. This will also calm your newborn's gums and will make him less irritated. However, make sure you only give him food he has previously eaten and got used with. As you know, teething babies may have diarrhea and if you give them new types of food you risk aggravating this problem.

Teething babies are quite sensitive and go through a difficult period. This is why you will have to be patient and supporting as you are the only person your baby can rely on. Help him and relieve his pain as much as possible, by following the tricks listed above.

Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy's den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special "treats" is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog's purpose for the crate is that it becomes his "den" you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den - a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog's regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you're having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite "potty pattern": when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her "potty area". Right from the start I began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten - back outside. Family social hour - back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn't have to clean up a single "accident" with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don't expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe "chewy" items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their "den", their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog's private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it's a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy's behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can't control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog's confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he's learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're certain that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

Help, My Dog is Vomiting

Vomiting in dogs is a very common occurrence and can arise from a wide variety of causes, from simple gastritis to complex diseases of other body systems. Not only is it very distressing for both the dog and owner, it also provides a challenge for the veterinarian. This article explains the multiple causes of vomiting in dogs, including adverse food reactions, and the range of treatment options available.

What is vomiting?

Vomiting is the expulsion of food, fluid or debris from the stomach or small intestine due to coordinated movements of the gastrointestinal, musculoskeletal and nervous systems. It is important to differentiate this from regurgitation, which is a passive process rather than a coordinated effort like vomiting.

Regurgitation is a sign of disease in the esophagus, such as obstructions (foreign bodies such as a stick, bone or toy, or a stricture), esophagitis (inflammation of the esophagus) or megaesophagus (dilatation of the esophagus due to weakening of the smooth muscle). The main difference between regurgitation and vomiting is that regurgitation is effortless, while vomiting is accompanied by strong abdominal contractions.

How can I tell vomiting and regurgitation apart?

Sometimes this is not easy to do. Generally speaking, if it happens immediately after eating it is more likely to be regurgitation (though vomiting can still occur then). If the content of the material expelled appears to be completely undigested food, this also supports regurgitation. If the presence of bile can be confirmed though, it is more likely to be vomiting.

Causes of vomiting

The most common causes of vomiting are dietary related, either through dietary indiscretion (e.g. overeating, eating overly rich or spoiled food) which causes acute (sudden) vomiting, or adverse food reactions (food allergies) which can cause chronic (long term and intermittent) vomiting.

However, there are a huge number of other causes arising from either the gastrointestinal system itself (stomach and small intestine) or secondary to disease elsewhere in the body (e.g. liver or kidney disease). Within the stomach, possible causes include:

1. Gastritis (inflammatory disease)

2. Stomach ulceration

3. Stomach cancer

4. Obstruction (foreign bodies, telescoping of intestine)

5. Hiatal hernia (part stomach herniating through the diaphragm)

Possible causes within the intestine include:

1. Infectious diseases (e.g. parvovirus)

2. Worms

3. Inflammatory bowel disease

4. Intestinal cancer

Secondary causes of vomiting that are due to disease elsewhere in the body include:

1. Pancreatitis (infection or inflammation of the pancreas)

2. Peritonitis (infection in the abdominal cavity)

3. Hepatitis (liver inflammation)

4. Kidney failure

5. Pyometra (infection of the uterus)

6. Hormonal deficiencies or excesses (e.g. Addisons disease, Diabetes Mellitus, Septicemia, Calcium imbalance)

Other potential causes that do not fit into the above categories are drug reactions (e.g. digoxin, chemotherapy drugs, NSAIDs) and neurological disorders.

Treatment of vomiting

Vomiting is a symptom, not a disease in itself. Whether or not treatment is appropriate depends upon the individual circumstances. If the dog is only vomiting occasionally, is bright and otherwise normal on examination, treatment is probably not necessary. Some dogs with sensitive digestive systems will vomit once or twice a month regardless of any treatment, and if they are otherwise well this should be ignored.

For acute vomiting cases, the first step should always be to starve the dog for 24 hours (while keeping plenty of water available ad lib). After the period of starvation, the dog should be offered small portions of a very bland food, such as chicken and boiled rice, for a few days. Meals should be fed as smaller portions several times a day, rather than one larger meal.

Though treating the symptom itself will often improve patient demeanor and comfort, it is no replacement for making a correct diagnosis of the underlying cause, and certain drugs can be harmful if given blindly (for example, giving metoclopromide to a dog with a gastric or intestinal obstruction). Certainly cases of acute and severe vomiting require immediate treatment, as dogs can become rapidly dehydrated, develop electrolyte imbalances and aspiration pneumonia otherwise.

Managing the vomiting dog

There are 2 goals when dealing with a vomiting dog:

1. Identify the underlying cause

2. Stop the vomiting in a safe and effective manner

In many cases, anti emetic therapy (the technical term for vomiting is emesis, and therefore drugs used to treat it are called anti emetics) is instigated immediately while the cause is being established.

A veterinarian will start by taking a full history, focusing especially on normal diet, recent medication, vaccination status and the description of the symptoms. He or she must first make sure that the dog is genuinely vomiting and not regurgitating, which has a completely different set of underlying causes. It is also important to get a graphic description of the material expelled, and whether it contained bile, fresh blood or what appears to be coffee granules (partly digested blood).

The next step is a full clinical examination, including carefully feeling the abdomen, taking the dogs rectal temperature and assessing the hydration status. Once this is completed, a veterinarian will have a slightly narrowed down list of differential diagnoses in mind. If the dog is not dehydrated, bright in demeanor, and both vital parameters and feeling the abdomen were normal, the veterinarian will often (and rightly so) make a presumptive diagnosis of gastritis, or gastroenteritis if diarrhea is present too, and prescribe antibiotics to combat the likely bacterial infection. The owner is then likely to be sent home with instructions to starve the dog for 24hrs and give bland food for a few days, alongside the antibiotics. The owner is instructed to monitor the dog closely, and return immediately if there are any signs of deterioration, or 2 to 3 days later for a routine check up.

If there are any findings in the clinical history or the physical examination that trigger concern, then further tests are necessary. The first of these is usually blood tests for hematology and biochemistry profiles. Urine and feces may also be analysed, the latter for either nasty bacteria or parasites. Additional laboratory tests may be required in certain circumstances, such as bile acid stimulation testing if liver dysfunction is suspected, or an ACTH stimulation test to look for adrenal disease.

The next stage of the work up involves imaging. The most useful is abdominal radiography (xrays), but ultrasonography and endoscopy can also be very important. Radiography and endoscopy both have to be carried out under general anesthesia, while ultrasonography can be performed conscious. If the imaging does not reveal the underlying cause then biopsies may be taken, either endoscopically guided or via exploratory surgery. Histopathology of these samples (studying the tissue microscopically) can give vital clues as to the cause, particularly by differentiating between inflammation and cancer.

The final diagnostic option is the therapeutic trial. If the dog gets better on the medication prescribed, then it must have been a certain type of disease that responds to that drug. By this rationale, wormers, antibiotics or an exclusion diet trial may be chosen.

Drugs used in the treatment of vomiting

1. Stomach protectants and antacids

These medications are useful when stomach ulceration is suspected. Examples include sucralfate (acts like a band aid over the ulcer), H2 antagonists (reduce acid production) and omeprazole (also reduces acidity).

2. Metoclopromide

This drug blocks a neurotransmitter in the brain called dopamine, which prevents activation of the vomiting centre in the brain (known as the Chemoreceptor Trigger Zone). It is only partially effective in doing this though, and has the additional effect of increasing forward motility of the gut. This means it must never be given to dogs that might have a stomach or intestinal obstruction. It can also cause mental changes such as hyperactivity and disorientation.

3. Phenothiazines (e.g. Acepromazine, ACP)

These are effective at blocking the dopamine receptors mentioned above, in addition to other receptors involved in the vomiting reflex. They are usually used when metoclopromide has failed, but also have undesirable side effects such as low blood pressure and sedation.

4. Antihistamines

Histamine receptors are also present in the Chemoreceptor Trigger Zone, the part of the brain that controls the vomiting reflex. Antihistamines are effective in blocking vomiting that is due to motion sickness, but are little use against other causes.

5. Domperidone

Domperidone has a similar action to metoclopromide in that it blocks dopamine receptors and secondarily blocks serotonin receptors, but it does not have the promotility effects of metoclopromide. However, side effects include vulval enlargement and possible effects on fertility.

6. Maropitant

This is a new drug that is a Neurokinin 1 (NK1) receptor antagonist. It can be given orally or by injection, and is extremely effective at stopping vomiting by working both on the vomiting centre in the brain and on the stomach itself. It is deemed so effective at stopping vomiting that veterinarians must be careful to properly investigate potentially dangerous underlying causes, that could be masked fatally by this drug.