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Top Tips For Potty Training Puppies

Let's be clear from the start. A potty is not used when potty training puppies. What we are talking about is house training your puppy so that it eliminates outdoors or in a designated indoor area rather than anywhere in the home.

Don't look on potty training puppies as the unpleasant or messy side of owning a puppy. Rather see it as the first stage of a bonding process. One that will result in a happy and healthy relationship. That is the real reward of house training a dog.

Start potty training as soon as you get your puppy home. But remember they don't yet have full control of their bladder and bowel functions.

Feeding should take place at the same times every day. Do not feed with four hours of bedtime and withdraw the water bowl two hours before bedtime. A routine is essential. That means you too have to stick to a routine by getting up and going to bed at the same time every day.

Take the puppy outside into the yard or for a walk first thing in the morning, 10 to 15 minutes after every meal or drink and last thing at night. Do not play with them until they have eliminated.

If after 10 minutes there is no action take the puppy back to its crate. Wait 10 to 15 minutes then take them out again.

Be sure to praise the puppy and reward them with a little playtime every time it does "the business".

Restrict your puppy to rooms with washable floors until he is house trained.

5 Ways to Get Your Puppy's Attention and Cut Training Time in Half

One thing that training puppies and raising kids have in common is that if you have their full attention, they will learn the lesson faster and better. Puppies make it easy on you because there is nothing they want more than your happy face pointed in their direction. To teach your puppy fast and easy, here are 5 ways to accomplish this:

1.) Use potty time. Puppies love to go outside. Since you are already rewarding him for fast response outside with loving praise and a happy face, use the excitement to work on another lesson at the same time.

For example, work on his leash breaking. Even if you have a fenced-in yard he should be getting at least some of his housebreaking time on a lead. A dog who is always loose in his yard when he goes will not go on-lead in a strange place. He will hold it so long you think he surely will burst. Of course this stress is not healthy for him, and you never know when you will need to take him out on-lead.

As soon as he is finished his potty and received his happy praise, say, "Wanna work?" in such an excited voice he will happily agree. Spend a few minutes with his heeling and sitting work, depending on where you are in his lessons, and give high praise. It does not have to be a full session, just an added minute or two to reinforce the lessons he is currently working on.

2.) Use meal times. At no point in the day do you have your dog's attention stronger than when he is hungry. Do not tease him with his food, ever, or take toooo long to give him his meal, but you can make a fun game out of a few little lessons before he receives his plate.

For example, since he should already be learning to sit calmly off to the side as his food is being prepared, (also when you are fixing your own), work on a short version that will encourage success. Rather than asking him to sit/stay for the whole long time, reward him with little bites as you go. If he sits for 30 seconds, give him a bite with high praise, release him for a moment, and place him again with a fresh command, only repeating the command when the first one ended in success. Never repeat a command if he fails to obey. In this case, quietly with a stern face, place his body back where you first put it with a light nudge to stress the point that "here is where you are supposed to be."

3.) Use the happy time when you let him out of his crate. You do not want to make too large a fuss when releasing him, just open the door and let him out, but of course it makes him happy and focussed on you anyway. Once he is free and you are loving him up, say, "Wanna work?" and do a little lesson, like sit, or down. Since he is excited only ask for 5 or 10 seconds at most, then praise praise praise! You must train when it is difficult for the dog to do it or he will only behave when he wants to behave, not when he NEEDS to.

4.) Use a new toy. Just like with his food and treats, do not withhold a new toy for longer than 2 minutes or so. Get his attention with it by letting him smell and taste it a little, without releasing it to him. The moment you give him complete control over a chewie or toy is a huge reward for him, so make him earn it. Do a few lessons, like a 1 minute down/stay or any other command that you are already working on. Do not introduce new lessons when the puppy is already excited. Use calm time for that.

5.) Use his regular session time. He loves his on-lead work time with you already, so before and after each work session, work on things that are not actually session work but, say, good doggy manners or just understanding English. For example, get his ball and teach him your call words, like "Fetch" or "Get it!", whatever you choose, make sure you keep using the same words over and over so he will learn them quickly.

Follow these tips in a consistent loving way and your puppy will learn faster than you ever thought possible, and become the best companion he can ever be.

Crate Training - How to Make Sure Your Dog's Crate Will Be His Safe Haven

The first thing to understand about cases that, like a grotto to hear your new puppy. Since the beginning of time, the dogs were living in caves, and are instinctively on his chest that seem, as long as you do not abuse it. This is a place for his contact with the outside of each and escape the kiss. Even if they love the attention, still need a quiet place to rest. It is small and cozy, but most of all it feels safe.

If you and yourFamily want to be able to leave the house without worrying about your new puppy should be quite content to spend time alone in his cage for short periods of time. This is very important because your puppy will grow to be very happy, safe and independent. This also means that you will not see your dog on separation anxiety. "Short Time" are the keywords here. You should never leave a new puppy in a cage all day or learn to hate it.

Whatdo it before the puppy has its own time

Take him to the potty: Be sure to take your dog to potty before you put in a cage for the time alone. You can do a long walk and let him go, even in a dog park, so he gets tired. Remember, puppies are full of energy when I exercise so much, I really enjoy the time alone in his cage. Do not be surprised if you get tired before your puppy.

Make it easy: you can be sure that your puppy will loveif you have a soft blanket and his favorite toy in the crate. Even a good water containers can not be paid. Most of the cases at hand if you buy them. This is the place for your dog, where nobody can disturb him while he is inside. If you have a wire crate (which I personally think are the best kind), you can make a blanket over them to feel even safer for him, if you want. (Do not cover the door)

Gradually introduce your puppyBox

Put it in the box: You can be in one of his favorites is to encourage him to start walking and eating in the box. Gently close the door while you are eating and leave the room without a riot. Come back in a few minutes and let it out. Do this several times a day and gradually extend the time you leave him there. Watch for signs of stress, but never its comfort food or you will show your puppy that is rewarded.

Write hisPuppy Food: Meal times are another good way to build his confidence. Set his food just inside the crate and then gradually place the bowl further back until he finally starts eating from his bowl way in the back of the crate. You can close the door while he's eating and then start to leave it closed for longer periods of time so he'll be comfortable staying in the crate long after his meal.

What to Avoid

Don't Leave Them in the Crate Too Long: An hour is the absolute longest time you should leave your new puppy in the crate. He won't be able to hold his bladder for too much longer than that. The last thing you want is for him to go potty in his crate, but the worst thing that could happen is his bladder getting damaged from holding it too long.

Have a Neighbor Check on Him: If you work and need to have the puppy in a crate, you will need to have a neighbor or friend come over to help you. They can take him out and play with him, plus he can go potty outside. Another alternative is to put the crate in a small safe room and just leave the crate door open. Buy some puppy pads that you can train him to go on when you are not at home for long periods of time. These are great! They have a certain smell that will attract your pup to potty on them...saving your floor or carpet. Make sure he has plenty of water and toys to play with.

Dog Training - Owner Problem Vs Dog Problem

When I am working with a client I always talk to them about what I like to call OP and DP. OP stands for owner problem. DP stands for dog problem. Some of the problems that have with our dogs are really what I classify as OP or the Owners Problem.

Let me share a quick story to explain my point. A few years back I was called in to help a very nice lady with a border collie. She loved her dog and did not want to get rid of him but she was getting close.

She worked long days and her border collie was left in her small apartment sometimes for up to twelve hours. If you know anything about Border collie you'll know that they extremely smart and energetic dogs. They really love to work. A border collie is happiest when they can spend the whole day chasing sheep and keeping order. They are all hard wired that way.

Anyway, her border collie was so bored and so pent up that one day he decided that he was going to chew. He started on the molding and then progressed to digging and chewing on the sheetrock.

Being a good border collie he kept at it until he had chewed a hole in the wall big enough to fit through. He went into the neighbor's apartment and chewed up his neighbor's shoes and other belongings. Needles to say the neighbor was not too pleased.

When I met with the owner and saw the hole I immediately thought OP. You see, I really could not blame the dog. A border collie can not spend twelve hours alone everyday without wrecking something.

The owner had to take steps to get this poor dog enough exercise of find him a new home. Luckily she agreed and we came up with a plan to help her dog that she followed completely.

The first thing we did was find a dog daycare where her dog could go and play with other dogs. Dog daycare is a great way for your dog to get physical and mental stimulation.

We then had her dog work for his breakfast and dinner. His meals were served to him in a buster cube. A buster cube is a hard, square toy with compartments inside it to put the food. Once the food is inside your dog can push it and paw at it to get the food to pop out. Her dog loved it.

She also spent at least ten minutes everyday doing obedience and tricks with her dog. Within just a week her dog made huge improvements. She was happy and her border collie was happy.

The next time you're faced with a behavior problem ask what your roll may be in the situation. Having a dog is a two way street and we have to take an active part in helping our dogs live with us.

Training Your Kitten - Tips and Advice

They're cute, they're loveable, and they can tear up your favorite chair before you can say, "bad cat!"

Well, of course I'm talking about America's favorite pet - the cat. (I know, some of you think the dog is America's favorite pet. But, us cat lovers know better.) But, as most people who have cats (particularly indoor cats) also know, these adorable creatures can make messes outside their boxes and tear up furniture if not properly trained. And the best time to do the training is when the cat is young.

Since there is no such thing as a "kittygarten," it's up to you make sure your kitten learns the rules of the house. And quick. Don't let the kitten develop bad habits that will come to haunt you later. For example, while it might be cute when Kitty manages to climb up to your dining room table during dinnertime, it's not so cute three years later and your cat is still interrupting your mealtime. The best time to put a stop to unwanted behavior is now.

Here are some tips that can help you train your kitten at home:

1. Kittens need exercise. If this is not done in the form of toys for Kitty to play with, Kitty will become restless and could do damage to you or your home. Make sure Kitty has plenty of his or her own toys to bite and kick and chase after. Notice I said "his or her own toys." Toys do not include your body parts. Never let the kitten use your arm or feet as toys to bite. Again, it's cute when they're kittens, but when the 3-year-old cat attacks your bare feet because you made it think your feet are toys, it's no longer cute. It's painful.

2. Since kittens are not yet toilet trained, it's best to start by teaching it what to do with a litter box. The litter box should be big enough for Kitty to enter and move around. If you adopted your kitten from the Humane Society or rescue group, chances are Kitty has been around a cat box. But, in case your new kitten has never been introduced to a litter box, you will have to make the introductions.

Cats usually do their business after a meal or a nap. So, after Kitty finishes her meal is finished, play with her for about10-15 minutes, somewhere near the litter box. Lead her to the box. Move the litter around with your hand to intrigue Kitty with the texture of the litter, inviting her to step into it. Encourage Kitty once she steps inside, speaking to her in gentle tones. Make Kitty feel that the box is a nice and comfortable place. Whether she soils in the box or not, be consistent with that tone. Eventually, she will like the litter box and do her business there. Finally, be consistent and patient. Results may not come right away, but the training will pay off in time.

3. The claws of kittens are not that sharp yet compared to older cats, so right now Kitty isn't too dangerous around the furniture. But, kittens grow up soon, and it's best to teach them that a scratching post is where they should sharpen their claws, and not on your favorite chair. You might want to sprinkle some catnip on the scratching post to get Kitty interested. When you see Kitty sharpen her claws on the scratching post, be sure to praise her, or offer her a treat.

Praising the kitten for doing a good job and feeding it as a reward will help in teaching the kitten how to behave inside the house. It's obvious to most of us, but it should be said - never shout at or hit your kitten.

Kittens are loveable animals and by spending some time daily with them, you'll end up with a loveable, house-trained cat.

8 Quick Tips To House Train Puppies - Vital For Successfully Training Your Puppies!

As with just about all things in life and in particular with trying to House Train Puppies you'll soon quickly realize there's a right and wrong way to master this task to potty train puppy! Using lots of supervision and positive understanding and love towards the training and in particular to your puppy you can increase to learning process immensely.

1) Be Sensible: Don't expect your puppy to know how to do this. Compare it to training little children who don't understand what you're saying. You must show them many times how to do it.

2) Oversee: Your aim should be to prevent your puppy from having accidents, without you getting angry and setting back the training process.

3) Establish a good toileting routine for your puppy as quick as possible; it's better for you and puppy to have these habits in place now then trying to re train bad toileting habits.

4) Locate a spot that's fine with you for puppy to use as there toilet and stick to it. It's vital that you remain consistent and firm in your training if you're going to get your puppy to use that spot.

5) Always be encouraging and cheerful toward your puppy and make sure to quickly reward favorable actions. When they use their toilet give lots of praise, some treats and even play for a few minutes. You want to show that you're happy with what they just did, and they will want to keep pleasing you.

6) Punishing your puppy will not help you with House Train Puppies training! It will only generate fear and may promote more messes if they feel scared.

7) Recognize and except that accidents will happen, you're both just learning and will take some time for the learning to stick. To help prevent more accidents thoroughly clean the spot.

8) Have a meal schedule in place and keep up with the training. Always take puppy after every meal for a quick trip outside to there special place.

By adhering to these 8 quick tips it will make your job easier, and help puppy to succeed. They're not hard but do require some effort from you. And didn't you choose your puppy because you love them. Isn't it worth the time and effort?

Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy's den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special "treats" is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog's purpose for the crate is that it becomes his "den" you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den - a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog's regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you're having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite "potty pattern": when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her "potty area". Right from the start I began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten - back outside. Family social hour - back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn't have to clean up a single "accident" with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don't expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe "chewy" items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their "den", their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog's private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it's a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy's behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can't control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog's confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he's learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're certain that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

Crate Training - Good For You and Your Dog

What is better than a room with a great view? Being a den animal, that is how your dog views his crate. A safe place to hang out and view surroundings. It's comfortable and secure. It's also great to keep your valuables intact until you get home from the mall.

While not a solution to all problems. Extensive crating can lead of feelings of frustration and loneliness. Your dog is trapped with no alternative. Primarily a crate may be used for house training your pooch. They do not like to eliminate in their dens. It also limits access to the rest of your home. Transporting your dog in a crate while driving is safer for both you and them.

There are different types of crates available. The traveling type are usually plastic and similar to what you would see in an airport. Fabric crates are collapsible and easy to transport. These are frequently seen at dog shows and on camping trips. Metal crates/pens are also available in collapsible forms. Be sure you get the right size for your dog. They should be able to sit, stand, lie down and turn in the crate. Some feel it is important to remove their collar before placing in the crate to prevent them from getting hung up on the metal cage. This is especially important during initial training.

Crate training can take a few weeks or a few days depending on the dog. If you consistently associate the crate with a pleasant activity it will be a lot easier to complete the training.

First introductions are important. Associate the crate with something good such as placement. If it is placed in a room frequented by your family, it is a lot less like isolation. Place a soft towel, blanket or commercial dog bed in the crate for comfort. Leave the door open so your dog has easy access. Some will allow their curiosity to rule and get right in. Others may be very hesitant.

If your dog is among the latter, make it a special occasion. Be happy, talk nicely, leave the door open and have a handful of treats. Gradually drop a few treats outside the crate. Slowly drop some on the inside and over a period of time drop them further into the crate. Don't force him to enter. That just creates anxiety. This process should continue until your dog walks all the way in calmly. A favorite toy may also work.

Give your dog a meal inside the crate. Again this should be done by increments. Once your dog is comfortable eating in the back corner with the door closed, it will be safe to leave him for a short period of time. Whining is not a sign for you to open the door and let him out. He is seeking attention in a negative way and you should wait for the whining to stop before opening the door. All are association techniques.

Potty Training Trials and Triumphs - One Mother's Story

If you are struggling with stress, frustration or anxiety over potty training your child or bedwetting, you are not alone. I am hoping that by sharing my story I can help you find the encouragement you need to put your mind at ease.

Here is my story.

I thought potty training my son was going to be the death of me! I read all the books, did all the research, spoke to his pediatrician and thought I was prepared for this new challenge.

When he was 18 months old we bought a potty chair. I introduced it to him and let him explore it on his own. As the books I had read suggested, I looked for signs that he was ready to begin learning how to use the potty.

Showing discomfort in a soiled diaper.
Asking to have his diaper changed.
Telling me immediately after soiling his diaper.
Demonstrating the ability to stay dry for longer periods of time.

He never showed any of these signs. When it came time for his two year old check-up I spoke to his pediatrician about the lack of progress. His doctor assured me that everything was fine and that it would happen when my son was ready.

For the next year, I tried everything that was suggested to me: sticker charts, rewards, books, music, videos, you name it. If somebody told me it worked for them, I tried it.

Finally, on my birthday and just two weeks before my son's third birthday, he went pee in the potty for the very first time. We celebrated this huge accomplishment with lots of hugs and kisses, clapping and silly dancing which my son loved. Then I realized that this was just the beginning. We still had a long way to go before we could say that he was officially potty trained.

Very slowly, over the course of the next year I was able to get my son fully trained to go pee in the potty. Bowel movements, however, were quite a different thing. Much to my surprise, I learned that my son is prone to constipation. Unfortunately, I found this out the hard way. He never exhibited any recognizable signs of constipation. This constipation seriously complicated matters. What began to happen was a vicious cycle. My son began to find bowel movements painful as a result of the constipation. In order to try to avoid the pain he would hold the bowel movements back. In holding them back he was allowing them to grow bigger, making them more painful to get out. Despite my best efforts, the cycle continued.

After a phone call to the pediatrician's office I promptly put my son on a low sugar, high fiber diet. I took him off of juice altogether because of it's high sugar content and allowed him to drink only water and milk. I pushed raisons, fresh fruit and vegetables and rid the house of sugary snacks. I also gave him teaspoons of mineral oil to help lubricate things and make bowel movements easier for him. By the time his 4 year old checkup came around, we hadn't made much progress.

After an examination by his pediatrician, we learned that my son had actually enlarged the end of his colon to three times it's normal size. The effect of this was that his stool would have to grow to three times it's normal size before his body would even sense that it was there.

We left the doctor's office with strict orders. He was to drink an 8 oz. glass of Citrucel every morning. He was to take 1-2 teaspoons of mineral oil every night and he was to sit on the potty for at least 10 minutes after every single meal to try to train his body to eliminate. He was to stay on this regimen for three months, at which point we would follow up with his doctor.

That three month period was awful! He hated the Citrucel no matter how I tried to make it more appealing to him and the trips to the potty were a constant battle. There were more tears, frustration, negotiations and tension in that three months than there have been in my whole life, but finally we made some progress.

The road has not been completely smooth since then, though. After yet another discussion with his pediatrician about his inability to stay dry at night we learned that his constipation probably plays a big role in his bedwetting. If there is stool putting pressure on his bladder he will not be able to control his bladder while sleeping. That and the fact that it could be genetic. As a child, I, too, was a bedwetter.

Fast forward three years. My son is now seven years old and a very happy and healthy first-grader. He has his bowel movements under control and very rarely do we have to remind him to use the bathroom. Now our only issue is bedwetting.

After nine months of washing bed sheets every single day I decided to do some more research about solutions for bedwetting and I found a moisture sensing alarm made by a company called Sleep Dry. There is a sensor that is clipped to the underpants and a wire that connects the sensor to an alarm that gets clipped to the collar or neck opening of pajamas. The idea being that the alarm would shock the body into stopping the elimination process and it is loud enough for the parent to hear. The parent gets the child out of bed, brings him to the bathroom to urinate and puts the child back to bed. It works similarly to the theory of Pavlov's dogs - training the brain to recognize the sensation of a full bladder. I decided to give it a try.

The first night the alarm scared him so badly that it took a few weeks for me to convince him to wear it again. When he finally agreed, he wore it every night for three months and it worked like a charm. Before the end of that three month period he was actually sleeping the whole night through without ever setting off the alarm. In the morning he was as dry as a bone. One night he asked if he could try sleeping without his alarm and I agreed. Things went well for a while, but then he slipped back into bedwetting.

I suggested reverting back to the alarm but he feels very strongly against it (he has always had a fear of loud noises). I am trying to be patient with him, but I am also working to convince him that the alarm is the best way to go. For now, though, we are relying on Good NIghts Underpants and he is actually starting to have some dry mornings all on his own.

He had his first sleepover not too long ago and we came up with a plan to keep the Good Nights discreet. The plan worked and the sleepover was a success.

Right now the only thing that I am concentrating on is making sure that he does not feel inferior or ashamed in any way. I am putting faith in his doctor's advice that everything will come together in due time when his body is ready.

I wish I had some answers to offer you if you are struggling to potty train your child. I don't. The right answer is going to be different for each child. I wanted to share my story with you simply so that you would know that you are not alone and that there is nothing wrong with your child. Focus on being there to provide love and encouragement for your child and remember that this, too, shall pass.

Dog Crate Training

Crate training your dog or puppy is worth the time and effort. It can take days or weeks depending on the dog's age, temperament and past experiences. Provide a crate throughout your dog's lifetime; it is your dog's private sanctuary. Always respect your dog's right to crate privacy.

Limit access while off leash until house rules are learned. Crates are plastic (often called "flight kennels") or metal and collapsible. Different sizes are available. They should be just large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around.

Choose a crate size that will accommodate the adult dog.

Crates satisfy the dog's need for den-like enclosure. A dog crate refuge reduces separation anxiety and destructive behavior, while keeping the dog safe from dangerous household situations. It doubles as a mobile indoor dog house when traveling by car or plane, although avoiding plane travel for the dog is recommended.

The crate should NEVER be used as punishment.

You want crates to be associated with something pleasant. Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the end opposite of door opening. Drop pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate until your dog walks calmly all the way into it to get the food. If the dog isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy inside. Toys and balls ought to be large enough to prevent being swallowed and unbreakable to small pieces. While investigating the new crate, the puppy will discover edible treasures. Praise and pet your puppy when it enters. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to it in a happy tone of voice.

Don't force the puppy into the crate.

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding regular meals near the crate if your dog remains reluctant to enter it. Put the dish only as far inside as the dog will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Once your dog is standing comfortably inside to eat, you can close the door while eating. When you first do this open the door as soon as the meal is finished. This creates a pleasant association with the crate. If the dog begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, leave it in the crate for less time. If the dog whines or cries, do not open the door until the whining stops. Otherwise, the lesson learned is the way to get out is to whine.

At first, crate your puppy for short periods of time while you are home with it. Training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog, to prevent associating the crate with your leaving the dog alone. Water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is confined for more than two hours.

The crate should have a soft mat or towel as a bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it. Some dogs prefer to rest on the flat surface, and may push the towel to one end to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the puppy no longer eliminates in the crate.

Place the crate near you while at home when the puppy goes inside, so the dog doesn't feel lonely or isolated. In most cases, it should be placed next to your bed overnight. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).

Do not crate a dog when temperatures reach uncomfortable levels.

Always remove the collar before confining in the crate. If you must leave a collar on the dog (i.e. for its identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar. If your puppy messes in its crate while you are out, do not punish. Simply wash the crate using a pet odor neutralizer. Don't use ammonia-based products -- their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot. Block off excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.

Except for overnight, dogs should not be crated for more than 5-6 hours at a time. Children should not play in your dog's crate or handle your dog while it's inside it. Do not crate your dog if it has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by worms, illness, intestinal upset such as colitis, too much or wrong kinds of food, diet changes, stress, fear, anxiety, or because it has not eliminated shortly before going inside the dog crate.